At midday in Sarajevo, muezzins call from minarets as church bells echo through the Dinaric Alps. Street cars rumble past hookah smokers and cafegoers. Chic women click-clack down cobbled alleyways. The city’s charisma is intoxicating, but the hustle and bustle belies a tragic past. In 1992, Bosnia-Herzegovina’s capital went from a beacon of diversity, with Yugoslav Muslims, Christians and Jews worshiping within feet of one other, to the site of a nearly four-year siege claiming more than 11,000 lives. But much has changed over the last decade or so.
